Risotto has long gotten a bad rap, with a reputation for fussiness — that whole stand-over-the-pot-and-stir thing — that has never really been accurate. It’s much more forgiving than many people seem to think.
In his new cookbook, “Fresh From Poland,” Michal Korkosz includes a version that uses barley instead of Arborio short-grain rice, cider instead of wine, and soft goat cheese in addition to the requisite Parmesan. The vegetable of choice is asparagus, in season now.
The cider and goat cheese bring a tang to the dish that is positively refreshing, especially as the days get warmer. The biggest bonus: Instead of gradually infusing the barley with stock, you cook it on its own — unattended, and days in advance, if you’d like — then spend a mere 10 minutes finishing it for dinner.
WITH ASPARAGUS, CIDER
AND GOAT CHEESE
Total time: 40 minutes
Servings: 4 to 6
This Polish take on risotto — sometimes called kaszotto — uses pearl barley instead of short-grain rice. You cook barley in a saucepan (a day or two ahead if you like) and use it to prepare a fast, comforting, light dish in minutes. Use asparagus, as the recipe calls for, or substitute another green vegetable: English peas, sugar snap peas, green beans or cubed zucchini.
3 cups no-salt-added vegetable broth
1 cup pearl barley
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 bunch (1 pound) asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 cup dry hard cider, plus more as needed
½ cup (1 ounce) finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
1 tablespoon (1 ounce) soft goat cheese, plus more for serving
½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
In a large saucepan over high heat, bring the broth to a boil. Stir in the barley, cover and decrease the heat to low. Cook without stirring, until the liquid has been mostly absorbed, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit, covered.
While the barley is cooking, in a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until nearly soft, about four minutes. Add the asparagus and garlic and cook, stirring from time to time, until they start to turn golden brown, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat. Pick out and transfer the tips of the asparagus to a separate bowl. (You will use them to top each serving.)
Stir in the cooked barley and place the saucepan over high heat. Add the cider, bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring frequently, until the barley thickens and absorbs most of the liquid but is still a little soupy, four to five minutes. Stir in the Parmesan, goat cheese and lemon zest. Stir in the salt and pepper, taste, and add more of each if needed. If you prefer a looser risotto, add more cider.
To serve, divide the risotto among four to six plates. Arrange the asparagus tips over the grains and top with more Parmesan and goat cheese.